Sipp’n Corn Review – Alberta Premium Dark Horse (“Dark Batch” in U.S.)

Thanks to some friends north of the border, I was able to get a bottle of two Canadian Whiskies, one of which is only available in Canada (Canadian Club Chairman’s Select 100% Rye Whisky), and Alberta Premium Dark Horse Canadian Whisky, which was released this past spring in the U.S., but called “Dark Batch.”

Some people have wondered why the name “Dark Horse” would be abandoned in this land where horses are featured on so many whiskey labels. The answer probably involves the new craft distillery in Kansas, Dark Horse Distillery (http://www.dhdistillery.com/), or maybe the existence of the Dark Horse Wines in Modesto, California, or perhaps Dark Horse Brewing Company in Marshall, Michigan. Either way, it’s “Dark Batch” to those in the U.S.

Dark Horse is a bit hard to explain, even before getting to tasting notes, so maybe this table describing its four components will help:

45.5%	100% Rye Whisky distilled in a pot still, aged 6 years in new #4 char American Oak barrels
45.5%	100% Rye Whisky distilled in a column still, aged 12 years in used Bourbon barrels
8%	Old Grand-Dad Bourbon (age and proof undisclosed, though)
1%	Oloroso Sherry

Dark Horse hasn’t followed the trend of finishing barrels, and instead it goes right to blending in a small percentage of fortified wine. As you might imagine, even at 1%, the Sherry notes are much stronger than merely being Sherry finished.

Details

Whisky:	Alberta Premium Dark Horse Canadian Whisky
Distillery:	Alberta Distillers, Ltd.
Age:	Undisclosed on label
Bottled:	Beam Suntory
Proof:	90 proof
Cost:	$29.99 - $34.99 locally for U.S. version

Tasting Notes

Color:

As the name suggests, it’s dark, but it still hangs on to a glint of amber and reddish tones. It looks darker in the bottle because (at least the Canadian version) uses the Stagg Jr. trick of a big black back label.

Nose:

The nose was more herbal than I expected, along with sugary-syrupy sweetness, honey, dark fruit, pine nuts, and dark, earthy aromas. But there’s more than just that; there’s enough going on that I found new scents on each re-taste (cinnamon, clove, furniture polish), and I expect to find more every time that I go back to it. I’m not exactly sure that I like the roller coaster ride, however.

Taste:

This is complex and coating: root beer immediately, and then honey, vanilla, cherry syrup, and rounded out with coffee, oak and smokiness. The Sherry is prominent, and sometimes it’s tough to grasp. Some of the favors complement each other, but others compete. It never quite hooked me.

Finish:

Peppery but sweet flavors linger and fade softly for a moderate finish.

Bottom Line

I enjoy my whiskey neat, or sometimes on ice, but that’s not where Dark Horse necessarily shines. In fact, it’s a little puzzling neat. I’m also puzzled in trying to decide whether to give bonus points for innovation and originality, or deduct points for blending scraps together. Dark Horse grew on me through my initial course of tastings, but after later tastings I’m pretty much done with it.

I’m perfectly pleased to have this bottle as a gift, but glad that I did not buy it. I’ll be experimenting with cocktail recipes, hoping that the rye shines through. I won’t go back to it neat right away, but I will eventually. As perhaps the true test, I don’t really think that I will replace my bottle when it’s gone.

Score on The Sipp’n Corn Scale: 2.5

The Sipp’n Corn Scale:

1 – Wouldn’t even accept a free drink of it.

2 – Would gladly drink it if someone else was buying.

3 – Glad to include this in my bar.

4 – Excellent Bourbon and even worth its high price.

5 – Wow. I’ll search high and low to get another bottle of this.